Bauble Brothers

The traditional artistry of Jaipur will soon be housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Sudhir and Sanjay Kasliwal of Gem Palace are all set to dazzle the world with their designs.

Text| Ritika Bajaj

 It was a Sunday morning and they had to exhibit their vintage cars for the annual Jaipur Heritage International Festival. They were busy giving orders to their drivers to take the beautiful cars out and get the engines revved up. While doing this, they attended to the odd customer who entered their store, in between posing for the camera and giving us bits of information. Multifaceted and absolutely charming, brothers Sudhir and Sanjay Kasliwal of ]aipur’s famous Gem Palace spoke at length about how they managed to attract clients like Prince Charles and the late Lady Diana to their store.

INNATE ARTISTRY

“We are the fifth generation of Jewellers. We have been working out of this premise for the last 85 years,” says elder brother Sudhir. Their haveli-like building situated at the busy Mirza Ismail Road in ]aipur still retains the typical architecture of the city with huge domes and miniature frescoes. “From silver jewellery in the range of Rs. 50 to diamond-encrusted jewellery that costs a million, we have it all,” adds younger brother Sanjay. Miniature elephants in enamelwork, trinkets in silver and lavish gold bracelets with clusters of diamonds absolutely captivate the onlooker.

Established in 1852, the jewellery business was a natural choice for the brothers. As Sudhir says, “Like the common phrase used by Indians, ‘it’s in our blood’.” The three brothers - Sudhir, Sanjay and the youngest, Munnu - have had no formal training in jewellery design. Childhood exposure to artisans and jewels made the learning process fairly simple. An inherent eye for aesthetics and the quality of gems enables the brothers to retain the standards set by their predecessors.

‘Jaipur has always been known for its famous minakari (gold enamelwork), kundan work (coloured stones) and the availability of precious stones. Thus, maharajahs from all over India commissioned artisans from here. The jewellery trade has since flourished, bringing in buyers from India, Europe and America,” explains Sudhir.

FROM HOMES TO MUSEUMS

‘Jewellery is now being bought off the shelf. Earlier, people used to patronise their own family jewellers,” explains Sudhir. “We retain our standards by dwelling on the minutest detail. For instance, we have cufflinks that have diamonds placed at the back as well.” Their fine craftsmanship has been acknowledged by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, for’ which the Kasliwals are now creating a collection.

Next on the agenda is a museum on the topmost floor that will house their collection of artefacts and jewellery ranging from the 17^th century to the 19^th century. The Kasliwals have been acquiring these rare pieces over the years and now jewellery enthusiasts will be able to view these creations, painstakingly created by artisans from yesteryears. Under construction, this museum uses typical Rajasthani architecture with marble and stones that the region is famous for.

ROCKING THE WORLD

“Even today, Gem Palace is a one-stop shop for gems,” says Sanjay, as we make our way up a staircase. Located above the main shop are several craftsmen playing with bowls of precious and semi-precious stones. These gems take a new life in designs by Indian and foreign jewellery designers. Gem Palace also houses designers from around the world, especially France and Italy, encouraging their talent and giving them room to experiment. “The current trend is the use of semi-precious stones in white gold. Even Bulgari and Cartier have moved on from the traditional rubies and emeralds. Smoky topaz, tourmaline, peridot and amethyst are some of the stones that are really popular. Designs are getting funkier and have uneven shapes,” says Sanjay, displaying a stunning gold-wired choker with rose­cut diamonds.

In a visitors’ book dating back decades, you will find names like Mick Jagger, George Harrison, Susan Sarandon and style gurus like Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta.

ELITE CLIENTELE

“We have been jewellers to most royal families in India,” says Sanjay as he shows us a unique ring with a cluster of gold leaves.

Gem Palace has a clientele that boasts of some of the world’s most famous faces. In a visitors’ book dating back decades, you will find names like Mick Jagger, George Harrison, Susan Sarandon and style gurus like Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta. Their high standards of jewellery design have also been appreciated by erstwhile viceroy of India, Lord Mountbatten, and the Maharajahs of Jodhpur and Jaipur in letters to the Kasliwal family.

Design houses like Van Cleef and Arpels and Cartier also buy precious stones from Gem Palace. “We have clients who have been coming to us since the last 70 years and they never leave empty-handed. The late Lady Diana, on a tour to India with Prince Charles, picked up a diamond piece while Jackie Kennedy bought a bracelet,” inform the brothers. And these are only some of the feathers in their cap.

VARIED INTERESTS

As Sanjay plays host to some of his old clients, we catch him break into fluent Italian every now and then. When asked about it, the suave jeweller simply said, “We travel to Italy often on work. I have picked up the language on my many visits there.” Similarly, brother Munnu is said to be responsible for globalising the family trade. In his quest to break away from traditional designs, he often travels the world in search of international trends and unique gems.

The Kasliwals, a prominent name in Jaipur, are proud owners of a large fleet of vintage cars, which they have been collecting during the last 10 years. “The day we bought our first vintage car, we felt rich!” says Sanjay. A 1931 Studebaker, a 1933 Dodge and a 1941 Packard-ll0 are some of the beauties that have been bought and restored by the Kasliwals. “We also take part in numerous rallies in and around Jaipur,” adds Sudhir, notably passionate about the acquisitions.

FROZEN FRAMES

While Sudhir is jeweler by profession, his hobby is photography. He has already participated in several exhibitions in India and abroad. His recent exhibition at the Diamonds Theatre in Ramat Gan, Israel, titled ‘India- My love’, saw snapshots of life in rural India in all its splendor and color. He looks at his motherland, Rajasthan, for inspiration, often focusing on its vibrant and sharp contrast. Sudhir, with an eye, for all that is beautiful and positive in life, captures happiness that transcends materialistic boundaries. His brilliant compositions also overwhelmed ex- president of the United States of America, Bill Clinton on his visit to India in 2000. “I was one of the privileged photographers who got permission from the White House to escort President Bill Clinton on his visit to the Amber Fort,” Sudhir says much pride.

Blessed with a sense of tradition, endowed with an eye for beauty and filling the world with shiny treasures, life is definitely more than precious for the Kasliwal brothers!

Stunning Stones

Gem Palace has jewellery that spans the ages, from 17^th ­century Moghul masterpieces to items made in the 1920s and 1930s, as well as pieces created last week. You can find the finest antique and modern jewellery. Loose stones and strings of faceted spinels, aquamarines, citrines, amethysts, rubies, emeralds, smoky and lemon topaz, peridots, pink and green tourmalines, and sapphires - all can be custom­crafted into one-of-their-kind necklaces, rings, bracelets or pins in a few hours. The rarest of stones are strewn about in dazzling, seductive piles. The fire opals are especially blindingly intense.

One highlight: A 22-karat gold bracelet by Parisian designer Marie-Helene de Taillac that sparkles with rose­cut diamonds ‘floating’ along its gold filaments.

HIGHLIGHTS

·        Gem palace was established in 1852.

·        Their client list boasts of the likes of Mick Jagger, George Harrisom, Susan Sarandon, Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta.

·        Their jewellery designs have also been appreciated by erstwhile viceroy of India, Lord Mountbatten and the Maharajahs of Jodhpur and Jaipur.

·        Their fine craftsmanship has been acknowledged by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, for which the kasliwals are now creating a collection.