Jaipur, the pink-walled capital city of Rajasthan, is bustling, busy, and hot. Its noisy streets are lined with bazaars, shops, and stalls selling traditional crafts, flowers, perfumes, and spices. But the city is most famous as a centre for fine jewellery and precious gems. The cognoscenti, especially designers, head straight for the Gem Palace on Mirza Ismail Road.

Munnu Kasliwal grew up in Rajasthan, and now runs the Palace with his three brothers. The shop was opened by his grandfather, but his family has been associated with jewellery for eight generations. 'My family were jewellers to the Moghul Court. Royalty were the biggest buyers in those days. Often, a craftsman would spend five years on one piece. Now, we are involved in every aspect of jewellery- from the mining of stones to the finished product.'
Munnu travels extensively to find new minerals: 'All the rough buying is left to me. I went to China when they discovered the ruby mines, and once found a ruby stuck in a buffalo's hoof.' Over the years, the family has collected some Important pieces, such as rings from Moghul dynasties, including the first Moghul emperor's magnificent emerald (inscribed 'Allah is always greater than the greatest emperor').

Munnu's haven is his country house, a modest structure that was formerly a cowshed. 'When I first brought the land, everyone thought I was crazy, but there was something about it I really liked,' he says. Today, it is a place of .tranquility and beauty. 'We have grass thatching, bamboo blinds, and blinds made with vetiver, which are watered to keep the interior cool and fragrant,' he explains. 'The garden and orchard are planted with guavas, pomegranate, and 2,000 rose bushes. There is also a rich variety of wildlife.'

The house's simplicity is the antithesis of the luxurious business in which he works each day, but the creative force behind both is the same - Munnu himself.

The Gem Palace collection is exclusive to Jewels and Pashminas, 12 rue Jacob, Paris 75006 (0033143255099).